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2013/10/31

Trip to Somaliland

I traveled to Hargeisa, the “capital” of Somaliland and the second-largest city of Somalia, on a 2-day business trip. Although I have travelled to South Central Somalia twice, this was my first time to visit Somaliland.

Egal International Airport
Somaliland, which is located in the northern part of Somalia, is badly seeking for international recognition as a sovereign state since it proclaimed its independence in May 1991. Somalilanders are quite proud of their origin and identity, and they are likely to correct you if you call them Somalis. The city of Hargeisa is decorated with Somaliland’s flag colored in red, green and white with a black star in the center. It also has its own anthem, currency, and a government structure.

As the aircraft reached the Egal International Airport in Hargeisa, vast semi-desert land stretched below. From the window of the plane, I saw herds of livestock, such as camels and goats, flocking sporadically. In fact, the livestock export to Arab countries contributes to approximately 65% of Somaliland’s economy. (Note: One camel is sold at $800 in Somaliland, but the price more than triples once exported to the Arab region.)
Qaat (ألقات)

Somaliland Shiling
Somaliland seems to be enjoying a fairly close relation with two neighbors: Djibouti and Ethiopia. With Djibouti, Somaliland has a history of more than 1,000 years of trading Qaat (ألقات), a stimulant herb that is largely consumed in the Muslim world. The land-locked Ethiopia exports and imports from Somaliland’s gate way: Berbera Port, a natural deep harbor on the Gulf of Aden. The presence of Ethiopians is felt in Hargeisa, and Ethiopian Birr can be used at local shops interchangeably with Somaliland Shilling and US dollars.



The presence of diaspora is significant as well. While driving around Hargeisa, I saw quite a few nice mansions built with colorful stones and glass. Most of the time, they are owned by diasporas. Remittances from diaspora are an important source of income in Somaliland, where an unemployment rate is over 75%. According to the World Bank, the scale of remittance to Somaliland is estimated at $1 billion.

Somaliland is quite safe and peaceful compared to other parts of Somalia. In Hargeisa, foreigners can walk outside alone, which is unbelievable in Mogadishu. There are quite a few currency changers on streets in Hargeisa, which is a testimony that the overall security situation is good (You will not see many currency changers in unsafe areas, as they would be afraid of carrying a large amount of cash). Once you travel outside Hargeisa, however, you need to get a police escort. The number of reported SGBV (Sexual and Gender-Based Violence) cases is allegedly increasing these days. There is a no-go zone in the Eastern part of Somaliland, which is also claimed by Puntland, another territory that claims its autonomy. But generally speaking, the security situation in Somaliland is fairly good compared to other parts of Somalia.

Somaliland has a huge potential for business, trade, and tourism. If the talent of the unemployed youth unleashed, the beautiful seashore developed and advertised well, and the port of Berbera fully utilized, Somaliland’s economy would grow.

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